2025年7月19日July 19, 2025
萨尔斯堡到哈修塔特不自驾交通全攻略：转车地狱实战记录Complete No-Car Transit Guide from Salzburg to Hallstatt: A Real Account of Transfer Hell
奥地利很多热门景点都建议自驾，但这次我们想挑战看看不开车能不能玩透——结果从萨尔斯堡到哈修塔特这一段，直接变成了一场「转车地狱」实测。
Day 1：萨尔斯堡市区
新加坡飞德国转机抵达萨尔斯堡机场，入住 Coolmama Salzburg，房间还没好先寄放行李。第一餐就到百年老店 Barenwirt，牛肉炖菜、炸全鸡还有一份大到夸张的甜点，好吃到停不下来。
接着去 **米拉贝尔宫（Mirabell Garden）**散步——电影《真善美》的取景地之一，接着参观莫扎特故居。爱情锁桥、Domplatz 和 Residenzplatz 一带的圣诞市集很热闹，广场上还有金球装置艺术 Sphaera 可以拍照。买了一份圣诞市集的椒盐卷饼，结果难吃到笑出来。
傍晚搭纜车上 萨尔斯堡城堡（Festung Salzburg），看夕阳、逛展览，山顶视野很值得。晚餐图方便直接在 Nordsee 打包，回酒店冷冷休息。
Day 2：转车地狱，前往哈修塔特
一早先在 Coolmama 顶楼吃早餐，城市景色超疗愈。接下来就是重头戏——转车前往哈修塔特：
- Uber 到萨尔斯堡火车站，转 150 号巴士，再转 546 号巴士到 Sankt Wolfgang
- 中途搭 Schafbergbahn 登山缆车，山顶雪景美到犯规，还在山上吃了一份扁豆咖喱
- 接着再转 541、543 号巴士，最后走十分钟才真正抵达哈修塔特小镇
全程转了快五趟车，冬天等车又特别冷，建议行程抓宽松一点，别排得太紧。
入住湖景饭店 SeeHotel Grüner Baum，饭店餐厅晚餐吃了培根猪肉卷，还有推荐必点的鱼——Saibling（北极红点鲑）。夜里逛了一圈哈修塔特小镇，美但冷爆。
抵达哈修塔特看到雪景倒映在湖面上的那一刻，所有转车的狼狈都值了。如果你也在考虑不自驾玩奥地利，这集会是很实用的参考——完整的转车时刻和等车实况都录在影片里，记得订阅追下一站维也纳跨年篇！
Most of Austria’s popular attractions recommend renting a car, but this time we wanted to see if we could do it car-free. The stretch from Salzburg to Hallstatt turned into a real-world test of “transfer hell.”
Day 1: Salzburg city
Flying in from Singapore via a Germany layover, we landed at Salzburg airport and checked into Coolmama Salzburg — dropping our bags before the room was even ready. First meal was at the century-old Barenwirt: beef goulash, a whole roast chicken, and a dessert portion so large it was almost absurd. All of it excellent.
Then a walk through Mirabell Garden — one of the filming locations for The Sound of Music — followed by Mozart’s residence. The area around the Lovers’ Bridge, Domplatz, and Residenzplatz was buzzing with Christmas market stalls, plus a golden sphere art installation, Sphaera, worth a photo. We also bought a pretzel from the Christmas market that turned out to be genuinely, laughably bad.
In the evening we took the cable car up to Salzburg Fortress for the sunset and a look through the exhibitions — the view from the top is well worth it. Dinner was takeout from Nordsee, back at the hotel to warm up.
Day 2: Transfer hell, all the way to Hallstatt
Breakfast on Coolmama’s rooftop first, city views doing wonders for the mood. Then came the main event — getting to Hallstatt:
- Uber to Salzburg train station, bus 150, then bus 546 to Sankt Wolfgang
- A detour partway up on the Schafbergbahn cogwheel railway — the snowy views from the top were absurdly good, and we had lentil curry up there too
- Two more transfers, buses 541 and 543, then a ten-minute walk before finally reaching Hallstatt village
Nearly five transfers all told, and waiting around in the winter cold made it worse. If you’re planning this route, build in extra buffer time and don’t pack your schedule too tight.
We stayed at the lakeside SeeHotel Grüner Baum, where dinner at the hotel restaurant was a bacon-wrapped pork roll and the recommended fish, Saibling (Arctic char). That night we walked the village — beautiful, but brutally cold.
The moment we arrived in Hallstatt and saw the snow reflected in the lake, every miserable transfer suddenly felt worth it. If you’re also considering a car-free trip through Austria, this episode is a genuinely useful reference — the complete transfer schedule and real-time waiting are all in the video. Subscribe to follow our next stop: New Year’s in Vienna!
🗺️ 地图上的足迹Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Coolmama SalzburgCoolmama Salzburg
屋顶早餐，可以看到城市和阿尔卑斯山景Rooftop breakfast with views over the city and the Alps
"离市中心有点远，不过免费接驳车很准时，住起来还是很舒服，屋顶早餐绝对是满分。A bit out from the city center, but the free shuttle bus runs like clockwork, so it's still a great place to stay — and the rooftop breakfast is a 10/10."
SeeHotel Grüner BaumSeeHotel Grüner Baum
餐厅推荐：培根猪肉卷、Saibling 北极红点鲑Restaurant recommendation: bacon-wrapped pork roll, Saibling (Arctic char)
"哈尔施塔特晚餐选择不多，如果没有入住建议提前订位。食物还可以，但称不上惊艳。Hallstatt doesn't have many dinner options, so book ahead if you're not staying here. The food is decent, just not outstanding."
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
《音乐之声》取景地之一，冬季部分区域会关闭One of the filming locations for The Sound of Music; parts of the garden close in winter
"我们没有参加导览也没有进入建筑内部，但花园本身走走就很惬意。We didn't join a tour or go inside the building, but the garden itself was still quite enjoyable to walk through."
💡 1606年由萨尔茨堡大主教沃尔夫·迪特里希为情人莎乐美·阿尔特所建——当时神职人员公然筑爱巢，堪称丑闻。别错过花园角落的「侏儒花园」，17世纪的怪诞侏儒石像。Built in 1606 by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his mistress, Salome Alt — a public love nest that scandalized the clergy of the time. Don't miss the Dwarf Garden tucked in a corner, lined with grotesque 17th-century dwarf statues.
莫扎特出生及居住过的两处博物馆One of Salzburg's two Mozart museums — his birthplace, and this, the residence
"可能我们没什么文化底蕴，参观很短，感觉平平无奇。Maybe we're just not cultured enough for this one — the visit felt brief and pretty meh."
💡 莫扎特一家1773至1780年住在这里，写下多首早期名作。原建筑二战时被炸毁，现在看到的是战后按原样重建的复原版，内部陈设多为复制品。The Mozart family lived here from 1773 to 1780, and it's where several of his early masterworks were composed. The original building was destroyed in WWII bombing; what you see today is a faithful postwar reconstruction, so most of the interior is reproduction rather than original.
萨尔茨堡圣诞市集Salzburg Christmas Market
主教座堂广场与官邸广场的圣诞市集，还有金色球形装置 SphaeraChristmas market stalls around Domplatz and Residenzplatz, plus the golden Sphaera sculpture
"千万别买那个蝴蝶饼，3/10，真的不值。Don't bother buying the pretzel — 3/10, honestly not worth it."
💡 萨尔茨堡的圣诞市集历史可追溯到15世纪，是德语区历史最悠久的圣诞市集之一。Salzburg's Christkindlmarkt traces back to the 15th century, making it one of the oldest Christmas markets in the German-speaking world.
霍恩萨尔茨堡要塞Fortress Hohensalzburg
缆车登顶，俯瞰萨尔茨堡全城日落Take the funicular up for sunset views over the whole city
"顶上的视野非常好，来杯热红酒，在城堡里悠闲散步很享受。The view from the top is fantastic — grab a mulled wine and enjoy a stroll around the fortress grounds."
💡 始建于1077年，是欧洲保存最完整的中世纪城堡之一，历史上从未被武力攻陷过。别错过「萨尔茨堡公牛」，一台每天定时演奏的机械管风琴。Construction began in 1077, making it one of the largest fully preserved medieval castles in Europe — and it was never taken by force in battle. Don't miss the "Salzburg Bull," a mechanical organ that still plays on a daily schedule.
Schafbergbahn 齿轨小火车Schafbergbahn Cogwheel Railway
圣沃尔夫冈开往山顶，可远眺11座湖泊Runs from St. Wolfgang to the summit, with views over 11 lakes
"风景很美，但一定要穿雪地靴，不然会在冰上滑到用爬的。The view is lovely, but wear proper snow boots — otherwise you'll be crawling on the ice."
💡 1893年通车，是奥地利现存少数仍在运行的蒸汽齿轨小火车之一。小提示：上山时坐右侧车厢，湖景视野最好。Opened in 1893, it's one of the last steam-powered cogwheel railways still operating in Austria. Tip: sit on the right-hand side going up for the best lake views.
明信片小镇，湖畔全景观景台The postcard lakeside village, with a panoramic lakefront viewpoint
"花了3小时，转了好几趟公车，还在寒风中走了一段路才到——但这真的是我们见过最美的小镇之一，满分10/10。Took us 3 hours, multiple bus transfers, and a cold walk to get here — but it's genuinely one of the most beautiful towns we've ever seen. 10/10."
💡 小镇太出名，2012年中国广东还原样复刻了一座「哈尔施塔特」。这里也是「哈尔施塔特文化」的命名地——欧洲铁器时代早期的一支重要考古文化。The village is so iconic that a full-scale replica was built in Guangdong, China, in 2012. It also lent its name to the "Hallstatt culture," a major early Iron Age archaeological culture in Europe.
🍴 美食Where we ate
推薦：Try:牛肉炖菜、炸全鸡Beef stew, whole fried chicken
"炸猪排一定要试，甜点份量真的大到夸张。The schnitzel is a must-try — just be warned, the dessert portions are seriously oversized."
推薦：Try:炸鱼、烤鱼外带Fried fish, grilled fish (takeout)
"老实说没什么印象，可以跳过。Honestly forgettable — you can skip it."