2026年4月2日April 2, 20262 分鐘閱讀2 min read
塞維利亞兩日遊：王宮、大教堂與聖周遊行Two Days in Seville: Alcázar, Cathedral and Semana Santa
🧭西班牙自由行Spain Trip·第 5 集，共 5 集Part 5 of 5
🇪🇸西班牙Spain從科爾多瓦搭火車前往塞維利亞，原本只是一個輕鬆的2天1夜旅行，沒想到卻誤打誤撞遇上了一年一度最震撼的——聖周遊行（Semana Santa）！整個城市完全變了樣，街道封鎖、人潮爆滿，宗教隊伍緩慢前行，氣氛莊嚴又壓迫，我們甚至被困在橋附近整整3個小時……但也因為這樣，讓這趟旅程變成我們最難忘的一次歐洲體驗。We took the train from Córdoba into Seville expecting a relaxed two-day trip. Instead, we stumbled straight into the city's most dramatic annual event — Semana Santa (Holy Week). The entire city transformed: streets barricaded, crowds everywhere, religious processions moving at a crawl, the atmosphere solemn and almost claustrophobic. We ended up trapped near a bridge for a full three hours. And somehow, that's what made this the most unforgettable stop of our whole Europe trip.
📺 先看這趟旅程Watch this journey
🧭 行程Itinerary
行程長度Duration
2天1夜2 days, 1 night
最佳季節Best time
3月至5月最舒適；但若想避開聖周遊行的封街人潮，出發前請先查好當年聖周（Semana Santa）日期March to May is most comfortable weather-wise — but check that year's Semana Santa (Holy Week) dates before you go if you want to avoid the street closures and crowds we ran into
難易度Difficulty
中等，聖周期間交通與步行動線會被打亂，需保留彈性時間Moderate — during Semana Santa, transit and walking routes get disrupted, so build in flexible time
Day 1：西班牙廣場 + 阿爾卡薩爾宮
入住地理位置超方便的 Hotel Rey Alfonso X，走路就能到主教座堂和阿爾卡薩爾宮。先到 **西班牙廣場（Plaza de España）**散步，彩色瓷磚環繞的弧形迴廊真的美到不真實，58個省份長凳一個個拍過去根本停不下來。午餐吃了 Cristina Bistró 的創意安達魯西亞料理，接著參觀 阿爾卡薩爾宮（Real Alcázar），摩爾風格的宮殿至今仍是西班牙王室的官方居所，噴泉花園和華麗拱門每一處都值得慢慢逛。
下午吃了 Kukuchurro 的油條當小吃，傍晚爬上 **都市陽傘（Metropol Parasol）**看夕陽，木構建築觀景臺視野超好，沒想到就在這時巧遇了聖周遊行的隊伍開始集結。晚餐在 La Bartola 收尾，創意Tapas味道很驚豔。
Day 2：大教堂導覽 + 意外被困3小時
第二天先去買了幾顆 Orange Tree 橙子當手信，午餐吃 El Librero Tapas 的起司拼盤超滿足。下午參觀 塞維利亞大教堂（Seville Cathedral），全世界最大的哥德式教堂，內部還有哥倫布之墓，鐘樓希拉爾達塔前身是清真寺宣禮塔，靠斜坡而非樓梯就能登頂。接著逛了 馬埃斯特蘭薩鬥牛場（Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza），純參觀建築與鬥牛博物館，沒有看鬥牛表演。
提早在 Lobo López 吃了晚餐，本來打算悠閒走去 **特里亞納橋（Triana Bridge）**看夜景，結果一到橋邊就撞上了聖周遊行——街道全部封鎖，宗教隊伍緩慢前行，人潮多到寸步難移，我們就這樣被困在原地整整3個小時才終於脫身。整個城市的氣氛莊嚴又壓迫，跟平常輕鬆的旅拍完全是兩回事，卻也意外成了這趟塞維利亞之旅最深刻的記憶。
Day 1: Plaza de España and the Real Alcázar
We checked into Hotel Rey Alfonso X, perfectly placed within walking distance of the Cathedral and the Real Alcázar. First stop was Plaza de España, its curved colonnade wrapped in colorful ceramic tile so beautiful it barely looks real — we couldn’t stop photographing the 58 provincial alcoves one by one. Lunch was creative Andalusian dishes at Cristina Bistró, then on to the Real Alcázar, a Moorish royal palace that’s still an official residence of the Spanish royal family — fountain gardens and ornate archways worth lingering in.
In the afternoon we grabbed churros at Kukuchurro, then climbed up Metropol Parasol for sunset — great views from the wooden lattice structure, and it was right about then that we noticed a Semana Santa procession starting to gather below. Dinner wrapped up the day at La Bartola, whose creative tapas genuinely impressed.
Day 2: the Cathedral tour, then three hours trapped
Day two started with a few oranges from an orange tree as souvenirs, then lunch at El Librero Tapas, whose cheese plate hit the spot. In the afternoon we toured Seville Cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, home to Columbus’s tomb — its Giralda bell tower, originally a mosque’s minaret, is climbed via ramps rather than stairs. We also stopped by Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, just touring the building and its bullfighting museum — no actual bullfight.
We had an early dinner at Lobo López, planning a leisurely walk to Triana Bridge for the evening view. Instead, the moment we reached the bridge we ran straight into the Semana Santa procession — streets completely sealed off, the religious procession inching forward, crowds so dense we couldn’t move. We were stuck right there for a full three hours before we finally broke free. The whole city felt solemn and heavy in a way that was nothing like our usual relaxed sightseeing — and unexpectedly became the most vivid memory of our time in Seville.
🗺️ 地圖上的足跡Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Hotel Rey Alfonso XHotel Rey Alfonso X
位於聖十字區，走路就能到主教座堂和阿爾卡薩爾宮In the Santa Cruz district, walking distance to the Cathedral and Real Alcázar
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
彩色瓷磚環繞的地標廣場，塞維利亞必去A landmark square ringed with colorful ceramic tilework
💡 廣場建於1928年為1929年伊比利亞美洲博覽會而建，弧形迴廊邊緣設有58個瓷磚長凳，分別代表西班牙的58個省份，也曾是電影《星球大戰：克隆人的進攻》的取景地。Built in 1928 for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, the curved colonnade is lined with 58 tiled alcoves, one for each Spanish province — it also served as a filming location for Star Wars: Attack of the Clones.
摩爾風格皇宮，噴泉花園與華麗拱門A Moorish royal palace with fountain gardens and ornate arches
💡 這座皇宮至今仍是西班牙王室在塞維利亞的官方居所，是歐洲現存最古老、仍在使用中的皇家宮殿，2011年起也是HBO《權力的遊戲》中「多恩」的主要取景地。The palace is still an official residence of the Spanish royal family today, making it the oldest royal palace in Europe still in use — since 2011 it has also served as the main filming location for Dorne in HBO's Game of Thrones.
看夕陽的木構建築觀景臺A wooden lattice structure with a rooftop viewpoint, great for sunset
💡 又被稱為「Setas de Sevilla」（塞維利亞蘑菇），2011年完工時是全世界最大的木結構建築，地下還藏著一座考古博物館，展示了施工時挖出的古羅馬遺蹟。Nicknamed "Setas de Sevilla" (Seville's Mushrooms), it was the largest wooden structure in the world when completed in 2011 — its basement houses an archaeological museum displaying Roman ruins unearthed during construction.
全世界最大的哥德式教堂，還有哥倫布之墓The largest Gothic cathedral in the world, also home to Columbus's tomb
💡 教堂始建於1401年，建造者曾說要蓋一座「後人看了會以為我們瘋了」的教堂，如今果然是全世界體積最大的哥德式教堂，鐘樓希拉爾達塔前身是清真寺宣禮塔，登頂靠的是斜坡而非樓梯。Construction began in 1401; the builders reportedly said they wanted a cathedral so grand that "future generations will think we were mad." It's now the largest Gothic cathedral on Earth, and its Giralda bell tower — originally a mosque's minaret — is climbed via ramps instead of stairs.
馬埃斯特蘭薩鬥牛場Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
沒有看鬥牛，純參觀建築與鬥牛博物館We skipped the bullfight itself and just toured the building and museum
💡 這座鬥牛場始建於1761年，是西班牙歷史最悠久、也是最重要的鬥牛場之一，白色與黃色相間的巴洛克式外觀，至今仍在每年春季舉辦正式鬥牛賽事。Dating back to 1761, this is one of Spain's oldest and most important bullrings, with a Baroque white-and-yellow facade — it still hosts formal bullfights every spring.
連接老城區與特里亞納區的鐵橋An iron bridge linking the old town to the Triana neighborhood
💡 這座橋又名伊莎貝爾二世橋，建成於1852年，是塞維利亞現存最古老的橋樑，鐵橋結構的設計概念據說參考了巴黎的卡魯塞爾橋，跨過橋就是以陶藝和弗拉門戈聞名的特里亞納區。Also known as the Isabel II Bridge, completed in 1852, it's Seville's oldest surviving bridge — its iron-arch design is said to have been inspired by Paris's Carrousel Bridge. Cross it and you're in Triana, the neighborhood famous for ceramics and flamenco.
🍴 美食Where we ate
推薦：Try:創意 Tapas 與西班牙料理Creative tapas and Spanish dishes
El Librero TapasEl Librero Tapas Y Quesos
推薦：Try:Tapas 與起司拼盤Tapas and cheese plates
推薦：Try:西班牙 Tapas 與創意料理Spanish tapas and creative dishes
✅ 會想再做一次的事What we'd do again
- 西班牙廣場彩色瓷磚迴廊，美到不真實，58個省份長凳拍過去根本停不下來Plaza de España's colorful ceramic-tile colonnade — so beautiful it barely looks real, couldn't stop photographing the 58 provincial alcoves
- 阿爾卡薩爾宮噴泉花園與華麗拱門，摩爾風格宮殿至今仍是西班牙王室官方居所The Real Alcázar's fountain gardens and ornate archways — a Moorish royal palace still in official use by the Spanish royal family
⏭️ 下次可以跳過What we'd skip
- 馬埃斯特蘭薩鬥牛場我們只參觀建築與博物館，沒有觀看鬥牛表演We only toured the bullring's building and museum at Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza — didn't watch an actual bullfight
😲 讓我們意外的事What surprised us
- 原本只是輕鬆兩天一夜，卻誤打誤撞遇上聖周遊行，在特里亞納橋附近被困整整3小時What was meant to be a relaxed two-day trip turned into being unexpectedly trapped for three hours by a Semana Santa procession near Triana Bridge
💡 早知道就好了Things we wish we knew
- 計劃西班牙行程前，建議先查好聖周（Semana Santa）日期，不然可能像我們一樣被困在人海裡Before planning a Spain trip, check the Semana Santa dates first — otherwise you might end up trapped in the crowds just like we were
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