2025年8月7日August 7, 20253 分鐘閱讀3 min read
哈修塔特到維也納：鹽礦、聖誕市集與跨年Hallstatt to Vienna: Salt Mine, Christmas Markets and New Year
🧭奧地利自由行Austria Trip·第 2 集，共 2 集Part 2 of 2
🇦🇹奧地利Austria從夢幻小鎮哈修塔特滑進7000年鹽礦，一路搭船加火車殺到維也納跨年！不自駕也能輕鬆玩奧地利，這一集有超刺激鹽礦滑梯、站票火車之亂、浪漫聖誕市集、百年咖啡館下午茶，以及飄雪中的跨年夜浪漫時刻。Sliding into a 7,000-year-old salt mine in dreamlike Hallstatt, then boat and train all the way into Vienna for New Year's Eve — this episode covers all of Austria without a rental car, complete with a thrilling salt-mine slide, a chaotic standing-room train ride, romantic Christmas markets, a century-old café break, and a snowy countdown to midnight.
📺 先看這趟旅程Watch this journey
🧭 行程Itinerary
行程長度Duration
3天3 days
最佳季節Best time
12月至跨年期間，維也納聖誕市集與跨年氣氛最濃；哈修塔特鹽礦全年開放，夏季交通較不受積雪影響December through New Year's for Vienna's Christmas markets and countdown atmosphere at their best; the Hallstatt salt mine is open year-round, and summer means less snow-related transit disruption
難易度Difficulty
中等，跨年期間熱門票券（如國家歌劇院）容易售罄，建議提前規劃Moderate — popular tickets (like the State Opera) can sell out around New Year's, so plan ahead
哈修塔特：7000年鹽礦大冒險
一早在湖畔醒來，先到 **哈修塔特景觀臺（Panoramic Viewpoint）**俯瞰整個小鎮，教堂尖塔配上湖水山巒，明信片般的畫面讓人挪不開腳步。接著回到 **哈修塔特鹽礦（Salzwelten Hallstatt）**排隊入場，這裡的採鹽歷史可追溯至公元前5000年，是全世界已知最古老的鹽礦之一，礦工至今仍用木製滑梯從礦坑深處快速下滑，我們也體驗了同款滑梯，還拿到一份免費紀念鹽。爬到旁邊的 **Heritage View（Hallstatt Skywalk Welterbeblick）**觀景臺，站在海拔350米高的懸空平臺上，哈修塔特湖和整個世界遺產小鎮盡收眼底。
湖上搭船之後開啟了一段波折的火車之旅——車廂沒位子，只能站著或坐在樓梯間，佩服自己居然撐到了維也納。晚餐吃了炸豬排配燉牛肉，服務生超給力，結束充實的一天後入住 Novotel。
維也納跨年篇：百年咖啡館 + 聖誕市集
第二天買了張 Vienna Pass 開始探索維也納。先到 Cafe Demel 吃 Kaiserschmarrn 皇帝煎餅，這家1786年創立的甜點店曾是哈布斯堡皇室的御用供應商；接著去 Cafe Central 吃午餐，1876年開業的百年咖啡館挑高天花板配大理石柱，環境美到不真實。逛了 **霍夫堡皇宮（Hofburg）**和震撼的 奧地利國立圖書館（State Hall），圓頂壁畫描繪查理六世化身天神赫拉克勒斯的形象，被譽為全世界最美圖書館之一。
傍晚到 Maria Theresien Platz 聖誕市集喝紅酒配雪花，炸薯餅100分好吃。因為太晚到沒能進 聖史蒂芬大教堂（St. Stephen’s Cathedral），只好先去看了 **安可鍾（Ankeruhr）**報時和 Manner 手信店買伴手禮。晚上排了1小時終於吃到小龍坎火鍋，好好慰藉了旅人的心，接著到 **聖查爾斯教堂（Karlskirche）**聽了一場 Vivaldi《四季》音樂會，最後回酒店房間看跨年煙火——雖然有點老派，但也是難忘的時刻。
藝術與雪花之日：白水先生的家 + 美泉宮
第三天入住 Hilton Vienna Park，Park Lounge 提供驚喜免費早餐。參觀了色彩繽紛的 白水先生的家（Hundertwasser House），這棟公寓由藝術家百水先生設計，建築內堅持沒有一條直線，樹木還從室內穿牆長到屋頂，至今仍有真實住戶居住。這次終於順利進了 聖史蒂芬大教堂內部，國家歌劇院票賣完，於是轉戰 美泉宮聖誕市集（Weihnachtsmarkt Schloss Schönbrunn），以宮殿為背景的巨型聖誕樹配上紅酒和飄雪，浪漫指數爆表。
最後一天在維也納入手了一條項鍊當紀念，體驗了一趟馬車漫遊收尾，接著搭火車前往布達佩斯，展開下一段旅程。
Hallstatt: a 7,000-year salt mine adventure
We woke up lakeside and headed straight to the Panoramic Viewpoint - Hallstatt to take in the whole village from above — church spire, lake, and mountains all in one postcard-perfect frame, impossible to look away from. Back at the Salzwelten Hallstatt salt mine, we queued up to go in — salt mining here dates back to roughly 5000 BC, making it one of the oldest known salt mines on Earth. Miners still use wooden slides to descend quickly through the tunnels, and we got to try the same ones, plus a free bag of souvenir salt at the end. We climbed up to the nearby Heritage View (Hallstatt Skywalk Welterbeblick), standing on a cantilevered platform roughly 350 meters up with Lake Hallstatt and the whole UNESCO village spread out below.
After a boat ride across the lake came a bumpier train journey — no seats left, so we stood or perched on the stairwell the whole way, genuinely impressed we made it to Vienna in one piece. Dinner was schnitzel and beef stew with an incredibly attentive waiter, and we checked into a Novotel to close out a full day.
New Year’s Eve in Vienna: century-old cafés and Christmas markets
Day two started with a Vienna Pass to explore the city properly. First stop was Café Demel for Kaiserschmarrn — this pastry shop, founded in 1786, was once the official supplier to the Habsburg court. Lunch was at Café Central, open since 1876, its soaring ceilings and marble columns almost too beautiful to be real. We explored the Hofburg palace and the breathtaking State Hall of the Austrian National Library, its dome fresco depicting Emperor Charles VI cast as the demigod Hercules — often ranked among the most beautiful libraries in the world.
In the evening we hit the Weihnachtsdorf Maria-Theresien-Platz Christmas market for mulled wine and snowflakes, and the fried potato pancakes were a full ten out of ten. We arrived too late to get into St. Stephen’s Cathedral, so we settled for watching the Ankeruhr clock chime and picking up souvenirs at the Manner shop instead. After an hour-long wait we finally got our hotpot fix — properly comforting after a long day of travel — then headed to Karlskirche for a Vivaldi Four Seasons concert. We ended the night watching fireworks from our hotel room — a little low-key, maybe, but unforgettable all the same.
Art and snowflakes: Hundertwasser House and Schönbrunn
Day three we checked into Hilton Vienna Park, whose Park Lounge served up a genuinely lovely complimentary breakfast. We visited the vividly colored Hundertwasser House, an apartment building designed by artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser with the rule that no straight lines were allowed — trees grow right through the walls and up onto the roof, and real tenants still live there. We finally made it inside St. Stephen’s Cathedral this time. Tickets for the State Opera were sold out, so we pivoted to the Weihnachtsmarkt Schloss Schönbrunn instead — a giant Christmas tree backed by the palace, mulled wine, and falling snow made for an off-the-charts romantic evening.
On our last day in Vienna we picked up a necklace as a keepsake, took a horse-drawn carriage ride around the city, then boarded a train for Budapest to begin the next leg of the trip.
🗺️ 地圖上的足跡Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Hilton Vienna ParkHilton Vienna Park
Park Lounge 有驚喜免費早餐The Park Lounge came with a delightful complimentary breakfast
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
7000年鹽礦大冒險，搭滑梯探索礦坑A 7,000-year-old salt mine, with underground slides to explore the tunnels
💡 哈修塔特的採鹽歷史可追溯至公元前5000年，是全世界已知最古老的鹽礦之一，礦工至今仍在使用超過百年曆史的木製滑梯從礦坑深處快速下滑，遊客也能體驗同款滑梯，全程還會拿到一份免費紀念鹽。Salt mining in Hallstatt dates back to roughly 5000 BC, making it one of the oldest known salt mines on Earth. Miners still use century-old wooden slides to descend quickly through the tunnels, and visitors get to ride the same slides — plus a free souvenir bag of salt at the end.
哈修塔特景觀臺Panoramic Viewpoint - Hallstatt
俯瞰整個哈修塔特湖畔小鎮的經典角度The classic postcard angle overlooking the entire lakeside village
💡 這裡是哈修塔特最經典的明信片角度，教堂尖塔、湖水與山巒一次入鏡，據說也是韓國樂天世界仿建哈修塔特小鎮時參考的取景角度之一。This is Hallstatt's classic postcard angle — church spire, lake, and mountains all in one frame. It's said to be one of the angles referenced when a South Korean theme park built a full replica of the village.
Heritage ViewHallstatt Skywalk Welterbeblick
海拔350米高的觀景平臺，鹽礦旁的絕美角度An observation platform roughly 350 meters up, right by the salt mine
💡 這座觀景平臺又名「世界遺產觀景臺」（Welterbeblick），需搭乘纜車上山，站在懸空平臺上能同時把哈修塔特湖與整個世界遺產小鎮盡收眼底。Also known as the "World Heritage View" (Welterbeblick), the platform is reached by cable car — standing on its cantilevered edge gives you a single sweeping view of Lake Hallstatt and the whole UNESCO-listed village below.
哈布斯堡王朝皇宮，巴洛克華麗內裝The Habsburg dynasty's palace complex, with ornate Baroque interiors
💡 這座宮殿群從13世紀開始擴建，歷經六百多年逐步成形，如今仍是奧地利總統的官邸兼辦公室，同時也對外開放茜茜公主博物館和皇家珍寶館等展區。Construction began in the 13th century and the complex grew over more than 600 years — it's still the official residence and office of the Austrian president today, while also housing the Sisi Museum and Imperial Treasury for visitors.
奧地利國立圖書館State Hall, Austrian National Library
巴洛克式大廳，天頂壁畫震撼登場A Baroque hall with jaw-dropping ceiling frescoes
💡 大廳建於18世紀，收藏超過20萬冊古籍，中央圓頂壁畫描繪查理六世皇帝被塑造成天神赫拉克勒斯的形象，被譽為全世界最美的圖書館之一。Built in the 18th century, the hall houses more than 200,000 historic volumes, with a central dome fresco depicting Emperor Charles VI cast as the demigod Hercules — often ranked among the most beautiful libraries in the world.
Maria Theresien Platz 聖誕市集Weihnachtsdorf Maria-Theresien-Platz
紅酒配雪花的浪漫聖誕市集，炸薯餅超好吃A romantic Christmas market with mulled wine and snow, and excellent fried potato pancakes
聖史蒂芬大教堂St. Stephen's Cathedral
維也納地標教堂，彩色瓦片屋頂超好認Vienna's landmark cathedral, easily spotted by its colorful tiled roof
💡 教堂屋頂由超過23萬片彩色瓦片拼成巨大的雙頭鷹圖案，教堂內那口重達20噸的普默林大鐘，只在新年、復活節等重要節日才會敲響。The roof is tiled with over 230,000 colorful glazed tiles forming a giant double-headed eagle, and the cathedral's 20-ton Pummerin bell is only rung on major occasions like New Year's and Easter.
整點報時機關鍾，12點人偶大遊行A mechanical clock with an hourly figure parade — the noon show is the big one
💡 這座新藝術風格的機關鍾建成於1914年，鐘面上12位歷史人物會依序緩緩移動報時，正午12點時所有人偶會一起亮相，還會伴隨對應的歷史配樂。Completed in 1914 in Art Nouveau style, the clock features 12 historical figures who slide across the face on the hour — at noon, all twelve appear together, each accompanied by period-appropriate music.
聖查爾斯教堂Karlskirche (St. Charles's Church)
巴洛克圓頂教堂，聽了一場Vivaldi四季音樂會A Baroque domed church — we caught a Vivaldi Four Seasons concert here
💡 教堂建於18世紀初，是為了紀念一場瘟疫結束而建，圓頂壁畫描繪聖嘉祿·鮑榮茂昇天的場景，教堂內還設有一臺工業升降梯，能直接搭到32.5米高的圓頂近距離欣賞壁畫細節。Built in the early 18th century to commemorate the end of a plague, the dome fresco depicts the apotheosis of St. Charles Borromeo — and uniquely, the church has an industrial elevator that takes visitors up to a 32.5-meter platform for a close-up view of the frescoes.
色彩繽紛的藝術公寓，屋頂種滿樹A brightly painted artist's apartment block with trees growing on the roof
💡 這棟公寓由奧地利藝術家百水先生（Friedensreich Hundertwasser）設計，1985年完工，他堅持建築內沒有一條直線，還堅持讓樹木從室內穿牆而出長到屋頂，至今仍有真實住戶居住其中。Designed by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser and completed in 1985, the building famously contains no straight lines, and trees were deliberately planted to grow up through the interior and out onto the roof. Real tenants still live here today.
美泉宮聖誕市集Weihnachtsmarkt Schloss Schönbrunn
美泉宮前的浪漫聖誕市集，飄雪跨年夜A romantic Christmas market in front of Schönbrunn Palace, snowing on New Year's Eve
💡 市集就設在哈布斯堡皇室夏宮美泉宮前的廣場上，以宮殿為背景的巨型聖誕樹是市集招牌畫面，是維也納歷史最悠久的聖誕市集之一。Set right in the square in front of Schönbrunn, the former summer residence of the Habsburgs, the giant Christmas tree with the palace as backdrop is the market's signature image — one of Vienna's oldest Christmas markets.
🍴 美食Where we ate
推薦：Try:Kaiserschmarrn 皇帝煎餅Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake)
💡 Demel創立於1786年，曾是哈布斯堡皇室的御用甜點供應商，招牌 Kaiserschmarrn 皇帝煎餅據說是為了取悅不愛吃甜的弗朗茨·約瑟夫皇帝而改良出的版本。Founded in 1786, Demel was once the official pastry supplier to the Habsburg court — its signature Kaiserschmarrn is said to have been a version specially adapted to please Emperor Franz Joseph, who wasn't fond of overly sweet desserts.
推薦：Try:維也納咖啡館文化午餐A classic Viennese café lunch
💡 這家1876年開業的百年咖啡館曾是佛洛伊德、托洛茨基等歷史名人的常駐據點，挑高天花板配上大理石柱，被譽為全世界最美的咖啡館之一。Open since 1876, this historic café was once a regular haunt of Freud and Trotsky, among others — its soaring vaulted ceiling and marble columns have earned it a reputation as one of the most beautiful cafés in the world.
推薦：Try:粉紅色威化餅手信Pink-packaged wafer souvenirs
💡 Manner品牌創立於1890年，招牌粉紅色包裝的榛果威化餅是奧地利國民零食，這家分店就開在聖史蒂芬大教堂旁，是遊客買伴手禮的固定打卡點。The Manner brand launched in 1890, and its pink-wrapped hazelnut wafers are a beloved Austrian national snack — this branch sits right next to St. Stephen's Cathedral, a regular stop for tourists picking up souvenirs.
✅ 會想再做一次的事What we'd do again
- 7000年鹽礦滑梯體驗，礦工至今仍使用的木製滑梯，還拿到一份免費紀念鹽The 7,000-year-old salt mine slide — the same wooden slides miners still use today, plus a free bag of souvenir salt
- Heritage View懸空觀景臺，站在350米高的平臺上把哈修塔特湖與世界遺產小鎮盡收眼底Heritage View — standing on a cantilevered platform roughly 350 meters up with Lake Hallstatt and the whole UNESCO village spread out below
- 美泉宮聖誕市集，以宮殿為背景的巨型聖誕樹配上紅酒和飄雪，浪漫指數爆表The Schönbrunn Christmas market — a giant tree backed by the palace, mulled wine, and falling snow made for an off-the-charts romantic evening
😲 讓我們意外的事What surprised us
- 從哈修塔特到維也納的火車完全沒有座位，只能站著或坐在樓梯間撐到終點The train from Hallstatt to Vienna had no seats left at all — we stood or perched on the stairwell the whole way to Vienna
📋 實用資訊Practical information
- 跨年期間國家歌劇院等熱門票券容易完售，建議提前規劃備案Popular tickets like the State Opera can sell out around New Year's — worth having a backup plan
