2025年7月19日July 19, 20253 分鐘閱讀3 min read
薩爾斯堡到哈修塔特交通：巴士轉乘與冬季實走紀錄Salzburg to Hallstatt Without a Car: Bus Connections and Our Winter Detour
🧭奧地利自由行Austria Trip·第 1 集，共 2 集Part 1 of 2
🇦🇹奧地利Austria奧地利很多熱門景點都建議自駕，但這次我們想挑戰看看不開車能不能玩透——結果從薩爾斯堡到哈修塔特這一段，直接變成了一場「轉車地獄」實測。Most of Austria's popular attractions recommend renting a car, but this time we wanted to see if we could do it car-free. The stretch from Salzburg to Hallstatt turned into a real-world test of "transfer hell."
📺 先看這趟旅程Watch this journey
🧭 行程Itinerary
行程長度Duration
2天2 days
最佳季節Best time
12月聖誕市集季節最應景（我們也是冬天去的，含雪景與市集）；若想避開濕滑山路、輕鬆遊覽，5月至9月更好走December for the Christmas market season, which is when we went, with snow and market stalls; if you'd rather skip the icy mountain roads and just sightsee comfortably, May–September is easier going
難易度Difficulty
較高，我們含 Schafberg 繞路的行程轉乘多，建議行程抓寬鬆Higher — our route with a Schafberg detour involved several transfers, so build in slack
薩爾斯堡到哈修塔特：先選直達目的地的路線
不自駕不代表一定要轉五趟車。 我們當天繞到 Sankt Wolfgang 搭 Schafbergbahn，才有影片裡那麼多段交通；如果目標只是哈修塔特，不需要照搬這個繞路安排。
巴士怎麼轉？
一般巴士走法是 Salzburg Hbf → 150 號巴士 → Bad Ischl → 541 號巴士 → Gosaumühle → 543 號巴士 → Hallstatt Lahn。Hallstatt Lahn 是前往小鎮的主要巴士站。請用實際出發日期查詢 ÖBB SCOTTY，核對每一段轉乘與末班車，不要只搜尋「Hallstatt」就以為已到酒店門口。
拖行李、當天來回，怎樣排比較實際？
如果像我們一樣帶著行李換住宿，建議把移動日與 Schafberg 遊覽拆開。這是根據我們多次轉車的經驗給出的規劃建議，不是另一條已親自實測的行程。大件行李能否放巴士行李艙，先向司機確認。
先查回程，再決定出發班次；把等車、步行到酒店和用餐算進去。票價及總車程取決於班次、票種與路線，這裡不把舊旅費當成現在報價。
交通資料核對：2026-09-17。當地交通指南。以下保留我們當時的旅程紀錄。
Day 1：薩爾斯堡市區
新加坡飛德國轉機抵達薩爾斯堡機場，入住 Coolmama Salzburg，房間還沒好先寄放行李。第一餐就到百年老店 Barenwirt，牛肉燉菜、炸全雞還有一份大到誇張的甜點，好吃到停不下來。
接著去 **米拉貝爾宮（Mirabell Garden）**散步——電影《真善美》的取景地之一，接著參觀莫扎特故居。愛情鎖橋、Domplatz 和 Residenzplatz 一帶的聖誕市集很熱鬧，廣場上還有金球裝置藝術 Sphaera 可以拍照。買了一份聖誕市集的椒鹽捲餅，結果難吃到笑出來。
傍晚搭纜車上 薩爾斯堡城堡（Festung Salzburg），看夕陽、逛展覽，山頂視野很值得。晚餐圖方便直接在 Nordsee 打包，回酒店冷冷休息。
Day 2：轉車地獄，前往哈修塔特
一早先在 Coolmama 頂樓吃早餐，城市景色超療愈。接下來就是重頭戲——轉車前往哈修塔特：
- Uber 到薩爾斯堡火車站，轉 150 號巴士，再轉 546 號巴士到 Sankt Wolfgang
- 中途搭 Schafbergbahn 登山纜車，山頂雪景美到犯規，還在山上吃了一份扁豆咖哩
- 接著再轉 541、543 號巴士，最後走十分鐘才真正抵達哈修塔特小鎮
全程轉了快五趟車，冬天等車又特別冷，建議行程抓寬鬆一點，別排得太緊。
入住湖景飯店 SeeHotel Grüner Baum，飯店餐廳晚餐吃了培根豬肉卷，還有推薦必點的魚——Saibling（北極紅點鮭）。夜裡逛了一圈哈修塔特小鎮，美但冷爆。
延伸規劃
Salzburg to Hallstatt without a car: choose the route first
Five transfers are not a requirement. Our filmed journey detoured via Sankt Wolfgang and the Schafbergbahn. If Hallstatt is your only destination, you do not need to reproduce that detour.
Which buses do you take?
The usual bus route is Salzburg Hbf → bus 150 → Bad Ischl → bus 541 → Gosaumühle → bus 543 → Hallstatt Lahn. Check each connection and the last return service for your date in ÖBB SCOTTY. Hallstatt Lahn is the main visitor bus stop, not necessarily your hotel doorstep.
What if you have luggage?
Based on our transfer-heavy day, we suggest separating the hotel move from a Schafberg excursion. This is planning advice, not another route we personally tested. Ask the driver about storing larger bags in the luggage hold.
Check the return journey before choosing your outward service. Include waiting, meals and the walk to your accommodation. Fares and total journey time depend on your departure and ticket; our old spending is not a current quote.
Transport information checked 17 September 2026 against the local transport guide. Our original trip record follows.
Day 1: Salzburg city
Flying in from Singapore via a Germany layover, we landed at Salzburg airport and checked into Coolmama Salzburg — dropping our bags before the room was even ready. First meal was at the century-old Barenwirt: beef goulash, a whole roast chicken, and a dessert portion so large it was almost absurd. All of it excellent.
Then a walk through Mirabell Garden — one of the filming locations for The Sound of Music — followed by Mozart’s residence. The area around the Lovers’ Bridge, Domplatz, and Residenzplatz was buzzing with Christmas market stalls, plus a golden sphere art installation, Sphaera, worth a photo. We also bought a pretzel from the Christmas market that turned out to be genuinely, laughably bad.
In the evening we took the cable car up to Salzburg Fortress for the sunset and a look through the exhibitions — the view from the top is well worth it. Dinner was takeout from Nordsee, back at the hotel to warm up.
Day 2: Transfer hell, all the way to Hallstatt
Breakfast on Coolmama’s rooftop first, city views doing wonders for the mood. Then came the main event — getting to Hallstatt:
- Uber to Salzburg train station, bus 150, then bus 546 to Sankt Wolfgang
- A detour partway up on the Schafbergbahn cogwheel railway — the snowy views from the top were absurdly good, and we had lentil curry up there too
- Two more transfers, buses 541 and 543, then a ten-minute walk before finally reaching Hallstatt village
Nearly five transfers all told, and waiting around in the winter cold made it worse. If you’re planning this route, build in extra buffer time and don’t pack your schedule too tight.
We stayed at the lakeside SeeHotel Grüner Baum, where dinner at the hotel restaurant was a bacon-wrapped pork roll and the recommended fish, Saibling (Arctic char). That night we walked the village — beautiful, but brutally cold.
Continue planning
🗺️ 地圖上的足跡Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Coolmama SalzburgCoolmama Salzburg
屋頂早餐，可以看到城市和阿爾卑斯山景Rooftop breakfast with views over the city and the Alps
"離市中心有點遠，不過免費接駁車很準時，住起來還是很舒服，屋頂早餐絕對是滿分。A bit out from the city center, but the free shuttle bus runs like clockwork, so it's still a great place to stay — and the rooftop breakfast is a 10/10."
SeeHotel Grüner BaumSeeHotel Grüner Baum
餐廳推薦：培根豬肉卷、Saibling 北極紅點鮭Restaurant recommendation: bacon-wrapped pork roll, Saibling (Arctic char)
"哈爾施塔特晚餐選擇不多，如果沒有入住建議提前訂位。食物還可以，但稱不上驚豔。Hallstatt doesn't have many dinner options, so book ahead if you're not staying here. The food is decent, just not outstanding."
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
《音樂之聲》取景地之一，冬季部分割槽域會關閉One of the filming locations for The Sound of Music; parts of the garden close in winter
"我們沒有參加導覽也沒有進入建築內部，但花園本身走走就很愜意。We didn't join a tour or go inside the building, but the garden itself was still quite enjoyable to walk through."
💡 1606年由薩爾茨堡大主教沃爾夫·迪特里希為情人莎樂美·阿爾特所建——當時神職人員公然築愛巢，堪稱醜聞。別錯過花園角落的「侏儒花園」，17世紀的怪誕侏儒石像。Built in 1606 by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his mistress, Salome Alt — a public love nest that scandalized the clergy of the time. Don't miss the Dwarf Garden tucked in a corner, lined with grotesque 17th-century dwarf statues.
莫扎特出生及居住過的兩處博物館One of Salzburg's two Mozart museums — his birthplace, and this, the residence
"可能我們沒什麼文化底蘊，參觀很短，感覺平平無奇。Maybe we're just not cultured enough for this one — the visit felt brief and pretty meh."
💡 莫扎特一家1773至1780年住在這裡，寫下多首早期名作。原建築二戰時被炸燬，現在看到的是戰後按原樣重建的復原版，內部陳設多為複製品。The Mozart family lived here from 1773 to 1780, and it's where several of his early masterworks were composed. The original building was destroyed in WWII bombing; what you see today is a faithful postwar reconstruction, so most of the interior is reproduction rather than original.
薩爾茨堡聖誕市集Salzburg Christmas Market
主教座堂廣場與官邸廣場的聖誕市集，還有金色球形裝置 SphaeraChristmas market stalls around Domplatz and Residenzplatz, plus the golden Sphaera sculpture
"千萬別買那個蝴蝶餅，3/10，真的不值。Don't bother buying the pretzel — 3/10, honestly not worth it."
💡 薩爾茨堡的聖誕市集歷史可追溯到15世紀，是德語區歷史最悠久的聖誕市集之一。Salzburg's Christkindlmarkt traces back to the 15th century, making it one of the oldest Christmas markets in the German-speaking world.
霍恩薩爾茨堡要塞Fortress Hohensalzburg
纜車登頂，俯瞰薩爾茨堡全城日落Take the funicular up for sunset views over the whole city
"頂上的視野非常好，來杯熱紅酒，在城堡裡悠閒散步很享受。The view from the top is fantastic — grab a mulled wine and enjoy a stroll around the fortress grounds."
💡 始建於1077年，是歐洲儲存最完整的中世紀城堡之一，歷史上從未被武力攻陷過。別錯過「薩爾茨堡公牛」，一臺每天定時演奏的機械管風琴。Construction began in 1077, making it one of the largest fully preserved medieval castles in Europe — and it was never taken by force in battle. Don't miss the "Salzburg Bull," a mechanical organ that still plays on a daily schedule.
Schafbergbahn 齒軌小火車Schafbergbahn Cogwheel Railway
聖沃爾夫岡開往山頂，可遠眺11座湖泊Runs from St. Wolfgang to the summit, with views over 11 lakes
"風景很美，但一定要穿雪地靴，不然會在冰上滑到用爬的。The view is lovely, but wear proper snow boots — otherwise you'll be crawling on the ice."
💡 1893年通車，是奧地利現存少數仍在執行的蒸汽齒軌小火車之一。小提示：上山時坐右側車廂，湖景視野最好。Opened in 1893, it's one of the last steam-powered cogwheel railways still operating in Austria. Tip: sit on the right-hand side going up for the best lake views.
明信片小鎮，湖畔全景觀景臺The postcard lakeside village, with a panoramic lakefront viewpoint
"花了3小時，轉了好幾趟公車，還在寒風中走了一段路才到——但這真的是我們見過最美的小鎮之一，滿分10/10。Took us 3 hours, multiple bus transfers, and a cold walk to get here — but it's genuinely one of the most beautiful towns we've ever seen. 10/10."
💡 小鎮太出名，2012年中國廣東還原樣復刻了一座「哈爾施塔特」。這裡也是「哈爾施塔特文化」的命名地——歐洲鐵器時代早期的一支重要考古文化。The village is so iconic that a full-scale replica was built in Guangdong, China, in 2012. It also lent its name to the "Hallstatt culture," a major early Iron Age archaeological culture in Europe.
🍴 美食Where we ate
推薦：Try:牛肉燉菜、炸全雞Beef stew, whole fried chicken
"炸豬排一定要試，甜點份量真的大到誇張。The schnitzel is a must-try — just be warned, the dessert portions are seriously oversized."
推薦：Try:炸魚、烤魚外帶Fried fish, grilled fish (takeout)
"老實說沒什麼印象，可以跳過。Honestly forgettable — you can skip it."
✅ 會想再做一次的事What we'd do again
- 抵達哈修塔特看到雪景倒映在湖面上的那一刻，所有轉車的狼狽都值了The moment we arrived in Hallstatt and saw the snow reflected in the lake, every miserable transfer suddenly felt worth it
- 薩爾斯堡城堡纜車登頂看夕陽，頂上視野非常好，來杯熱紅酒悠閒散步很享受The cable car up to Salzburg Fortress for sunset — fantastic views from the top, best enjoyed with a mulled wine and a leisurely stroll
- 百年老店Barenwirt的牛肉燉菜、炸全雞，好吃到停不下來Beef goulash and a whole roast chicken at the century-old Barenwirt — good enough that we couldn't stop eating
⏭️ 下次可以跳過What we'd skip
- 莫扎特故居參觀很短，感覺平平無奇，可能是我們沒什麼文化底蘊Mozart's Residence — the visit felt brief and pretty forgettable, though maybe we're just not cultured enough for it
- 聖誕市集的椒鹽捲餅千萬別買，難吃到笑出來Don't buy the pretzel from the Christmas market — it was genuinely, laughably bad
- Nordsee外帶炸魚沒什麼印象，可以跳過The takeout fried fish from Nordsee was forgettable — you can skip it
📋 實用資訊Practical information
- 我們當天含 Schafberg 繞路，轉乘近五趟，建議行程抓寬鬆一點，別排得太緊Our route with a Schafberg detour involved nearly five transfers — build in extra buffer time and don't pack the schedule too tight
- Schafbergbahn纜車山頂雪景很美，但一定要穿雪地靴，不然會在冰上滑到用爬的The views from the top of the Schafbergbahn are lovely, but wear proper snow boots — otherwise you'll be crawling on the ice
