2024年5月20日May 20, 20242 分鐘閱讀2 min read
大洋路4天3夜自駕攻略：十二門徒到Gibson Steps日落神景Great Ocean Road 4-Day Self-Drive Guide: Twelve Apostles to Sunset at Gibson Steps
🧭墨爾本自由行Melbourne Trip·第 2 集，共 3 集Part 2 of 3
🇦🇺澳洲Australia大洋路4天3夜自駕全記錄！這條經典公路是澳洲最長的戰爭紀念碑——由一戰歸國老兵在1919至1932年間徒手修建，全長243公里，沿途景色一路壯闊。The full 4-day, 3-night Great Ocean Road self-drive record! This iconic route is Australia's longest war memorial — built by hand by returned WWI soldiers between 1919 and 1932, stretching 243km along a genuinely spectacular coastline.
📺 先看這趟旅程Watch this journey
🧭 行程Itinerary
行程長度Duration
4天3夜4 days, 3 nights
最佳季節Best time
9月至隔年4月（春夏季），避開冬季濕滑山路September to April (spring/summer) — avoids slick winter mountain roads
難易度Difficulty
輕鬆，一般自駕新手也能上路Easy — comfortable even for first-time self-drivers
Day 1：從墨爾本出發
早餐先在 Fitzroy 的人氣可頌店 Lune Croissanterie 報到，接著到吉隆海濱散步，在 Torquay 海灘初遇大洋路海景。Rocky Point Lookout 全景拍照後，抵達暱稱「小紅帽」的 Split Point Lighthouse，1891年建成，還是澳洲兒童劇《Round the Twist》的取景地。晚餐吃了酥脆的 Yo! Chicken 炸雞，入住海灘旁的 Airbnb「100 Steps to the Beach」。
Day 2：遇見野生無尾熊
Memorial Arch 是大洋路真正的起點標誌，紀念修路的歸國老兵。接著在 Lorne 小鎮放風，到 Kennett River Nature Walk 尋找野生無尾熊——這裡是澳洲少數能在樹梢近距離看到野生考拉的地方，真的找到了！Mariners Lookout 俯瞰阿波羅灣全景，晚餐在 Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op 吃了當天現撈的超新鮮海鮮，入住海景房 Seafarers Getaway。
Day 3：最精彩的一天
一早探訪 The Redwoods Otways 紅杉林秘境——1936年種下的加州紅杉，如今已長到60多米高，完全不像在澳洲。接著造訪 Cape Otway Lightstation，1848年建成，是澳洲現存最古老的燈塔，專門用來警示這段惡名昭彰的「沉船海岸」。
壓軸登場的 十二門徒 Twelve Apostles 海蝕柱震撼到三刷都不膩，其實這些岩柱數量從來沒有真正到過十二座，且侵蝕仍在持續，2005年還曾有一座當場崩塌。傍晚在 Gibson Steps 看夕陽落海，沿著峭壁鑿出的70米階梯走到海灘，此生必去。入住小鎮氣氛超放鬆的 Sea Foam Villas。
Day 4：最後一程
London Bridge 曾是連接陸地的雙拱岩橋，1990年1月陸地端的拱門突然崩塌，還困住了兩名遊客，靠直升機才脫困，如今只剩海中孤立的橋墩。最後在 Timboon Fine Ice Cream 吃了一支香草冰淇淋，一路開回墨爾本，結束這趟經典大洋路自駕。
Day 1: Setting off from Melbourne
Breakfast started at Lune Croissanterie, a popular bakery in Fitzroy, then a stroll along the Geelong waterfront and our first taste of Great Ocean Road coastline at Torquay Beach. After photos at Rocky Point Lookout, we reached Split Point Lighthouse, nicknamed “the White Queen,” built in 1891 and once a filming location for the Australian kids’ show Round the Twist. Dinner was crispy fried chicken from Yo! Chicken, staying at a beachside Airbnb called “100 Steps to the Beach.”
Day 2: A wild koala encounter
Memorial Arch marks the true start of the Great Ocean Road, honoring the returned soldiers who built it. We spent some downtime in the town of Lorne, then went looking for wild koalas at Kennett River Nature Walk — one of the few places in Australia where you can spot them at eye level in the treetops, and we actually found one! Mariners Lookout gave us a full panorama over Apollo Bay, dinner was same-day-catch seafood at Apollo Bay Fishermen’s Co-op, and we stayed at the sea-view Seafarers Getaway.
Day 3: The best day of the trip
We started the morning at the hidden Redwoods Otways grove — Californian redwoods planted in 1936, now towering over 60 meters tall, barely feeling like Australia at all. Next was Cape Otway Lightstation, built in 1848 and Australia’s oldest surviving lighthouse, built specifically to warn ships off the notoriously deadly “Shipwreck Coast.”
The headline act, the Twelve Apostles rock stacks, stayed thrilling even on our third look — there were, in fact, never actually twelve of them, and erosion is ongoing; one collapsed as recently as 2005. By evening we watched the sun set into the sea at Gibson Steps, walking down a 70-meter staircase carved into the cliff face to the beach — a genuine must-see. We stayed at the relaxed Sea Foam Villas.
Day 4: The final stretch
London Bridge used to be a double-arched rock formation connected to the mainland — until the landward arch suddenly collapsed in January 1990, stranding two tourists who had to be rescued by helicopter. All that remains today is an isolated pillar out in the sea. We finished with a vanilla ice cream at Timboon Fine Ice Cream before driving all the way back to Melbourne, closing out this classic Great Ocean Road self-drive.
🗺️ 地圖上的足跡Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Sea Foam VillasSea Foam Villas
波特坎貝爾小鎮，氣氛超放鬆A relaxed stay in the town of Port Campbell
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
Split Point LighthouseSplit Point Lighthouse
暱稱「小紅帽」燈塔Nicknamed "the White Queen"
💡 燈塔1891年建成，暱稱「小紅帽」，也是澳洲經典兒童劇《Round the Twist》的取景地。The lighthouse was built in 1891 and nicknamed "the White Queen." It was also a filming location for the classic Australian kids' show Round the Twist.
Memorial ArchMemorial Arch at Eastern View
大洋路真正的起點標誌The true starting marker of the Great Ocean Road
💡 大洋路由一戰歸國老兵在1919至1932年間徒手修建，是全世界最大的戰爭紀念碑，這座木造牌坊正是為了紀念他們而立。The Great Ocean Road was built by hand by returned WWI soldiers between 1919 and 1932, making it the world's largest war memorial — this wooden arch was erected to honor them.
Kennett River Nature WalkKennett River Nature Walk
近距離尋找野生無尾熊Spotting wild koalas at close range
💡 這裡的 Grey River Road 是澳洲少數幾個能在樹梢近距離看到野生考拉的地方之一，不用去動物園也能巧遇。Grey River Road here is one of the few places in Australia where you can spot wild koalas at eye level in the treetops — no zoo required.
Mariners LookoutMariners Lookout
俯瞰阿波羅灣全景A full panorama over Apollo Bay
The Redwoods OtwaysThe Redwoods Otways
紅杉林秘境探險A hidden grove of towering redwoods
💡 這片紅杉林其實是1936年種下的加州紅杉，屬於一場林業實驗，如今已長到60多米高，完全不是澳洲原生樹種。This grove is actually a stand of Californian coast redwoods planted in 1936 as a forestry experiment — now towering over 60 meters tall, despite not being native to Australia at all.
Cape Otway LightstationCape Otway Lightstation
燈塔加歷史故事A lighthouse with a rich history
💡 建於1848年，是澳洲現存最古老的燈塔，專門用來警示這段惡名昭彰的「沉船海岸」，防止船隻觸礁。Built in 1848, this is Australia's oldest surviving lighthouse, built specifically to warn ships away from this notoriously deadly stretch known as the "Shipwreck Coast."
經典壓軸海蝕柱The Great Ocean Road's headline rock formation
💡 儘管名叫「十二門徒」，這些岩柱其實從未真正湊齊十二座，原名甚至叫「母豬與小豬」。侵蝕仍在持續，2005年就有一座當場崩塌。Despite the name, there were never actually twelve rock stacks here — they were originally called "Sow and Piglets." Erosion is ongoing, and one collapsed as recently as 2005.
沿峭壁鑿出的70米階梯，日落神景A 70-meter staircase carved into the cliff, with a stunning sunset
曾是連接陸地的雙拱岩橋Once a double-arched rock formation connected to the mainland
💡 1990年1月，靠陸地那端的拱門毫無預警地崩塌，當場困住兩名正在橋上的遊客，最後靠直升機才脫困，如今只剩海中孤立的橋墩。In January 1990, the landward arch collapsed without warning, stranding two tourists who happened to be on the bridge at the time — they had to be rescued by helicopter. Today only an isolated pillar remains out in the sea.
🍴 美食Where we ate
Lune CroissanterieLune Croissanterie
推薦：Try:可頌Croissants
💡 Lune Croissanterie 由前航空工程師 Kate Reid 創立，她把工程精密度帶進了可頌製作，曾被國際媒體評為世界最佳可頌之一。Lune Croissanterie was founded by Kate Reid, a former aerospace engineer who brought engineering-level precision to her croissant-making process — it's been named one of the world's best croissants by international press.
Apollo Bay Fishermen's Co-OpApollo Bay Fishermen's Co-Op
推薦：Try:當日現撈海鮮Same-day catch seafood
💡 這家漁民合作社由當地漁業家庭共同經營，海鮮都是漁船當天現撈直送，新鮮度沒話說。This co-op is run by local fishing families, selling same-day catch straight off their own boats.
✅ 會想再做一次的事What we'd do again
- Gibson Steps 夕陽，人少景美，此生必看Sunset at Gibson Steps — quiet, stunning, unmissable
- Kennett River 近距離偶遇野生無尾熊，完全免費Spotting wild koalas at eye level at Kennett River, completely free
- The Redwoods Otways 紅杉林秘境，遊客稀少卻美到不像在澳洲The hidden Redwoods Otways grove — barely any tourists, doesn't even feel like Australia
⏭️ 下次可以跳過What we'd skip
- Mariners Lookout 只是普通觀景點，時間緊的話可以跳過Mariners Lookout is just an ordinary viewpoint — skip it if you're short on time
😲 讓我們意外的事What surprised us
- 十二門徒其實從來沒有滿過十二座，侵蝕還在持續，2005年當場崩塌過一座The Twelve Apostles never actually numbered twelve — the erosion is ongoing, and one collapsed in real time back in 2005
- 考拉離馬路超近，完全不用跟團或付費就能看到，比想像中容易太多The koalas were right next to the road — no tour, no fee, way easier to spot than we expected
💡 早知道就好了Things we wish we knew
- 應該逆時針走（墨爾本到Port Campbell方向），沿途海景都在副駕駛座那側，拍照更順We should have driven counter-clockwise (Melbourne to Port Campbell) — that way the ocean view sits on the passenger side the whole way, much easier for photos
- 尖峰假日十二門徒停車場一位難求，建議避開週末和公共假期The Twelve Apostles car park fills up fast on weekends and public holidays — go on a weekday if you can
📋 實用資訊Practical information
- 山區夜間開車請放慢速度，袋鼠常在暮色時分衝出馬路Slow down on mountain roads after dark — kangaroos often dart out at dusk
- 大部分小鎮加油站晚上會提早打烊，記得白天先加滿油Most small-town petrol stations close early — fill up during the day
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