2026年6月18日June 18, 20262 分鐘閱讀3 min read
塔斯馬尼亞自駕紀錄：霍巴特、Richmond 與布魯尼島Tasmania Road Trip: Hobart, Richmond and Bruny Island
這趟塔斯馬尼亞之旅，本來是衝著極光去的，結果天公不作美。This Tasmania trip was originally all about chasing the aurora. The weather didn't cooperate.
📺 先看這趟旅程Watch this journey
🧭 行程Itinerary
行程長度Duration
本文記錄兩天行程，含兩處住宿Two days covered, with two accommodation stops
最佳季節Best time
12月至隔年3月（塔斯馬尼亞夏季）December to March (Tasmanian summer)
難易度Difficulty
輕鬆，自駕加渡輪Easy — self-driving plus a ferry crossing
跟著這段路線走之前
這篇記錄霍巴特、Richmond 與布魯尼島的兩天片段，包含 South Arm 和布魯尼島兩處住宿，並不是「兩天一夜即可原樣完成」的行程。安排自己的假期時，還要留出離島與回程時間。
我們的順序是租車後前往 Richmond，再回霍巴特逛市集，隔天搭渡輪到布魯尼島。若想把市集放進行程，先確認日期；住宿也應按每天的終點安排，不要只看景點清單。極光和野生動物沒有保證，把沿途停留當成旅程本身，才不會整天只在等待。
Day 1：霍巴特市區 + Richmond
落地霍巴特，租了 SIXT 的車直奔 Richmond——一座建於1823年的石橋，加上無邊無際的草原，光是發呆就值回票價。
午餐在 Czeggs 吃了蜂蜜蛋糕和海鮮意麵，附近還找到當地的「Wombat Man」爺爺，買了一隻手工木雕Wombat帶回家當紀念。
下午回到市區逛 Salamanca Market——霍巴特最熱鬧的週六市集，手工藝品、當地農產品到街頭小吃應有盡有，喝了一碗燙嘴的龍蝦湯，順手逛了蜂蜜和薰衣草攤位。
晚上入住 South Arm 的 Tiny Away 森林小屋，午覺睡到日落，接著去 RSL（Returned Services League，澳洲退伍軍人協會開的社群餐廳）吃了出乎意料好吃的豬腩肉——價格親民，外地人去會有點驚喜感。夜裡坐在戶外數螢火蟲等極光……可惜沒有等到。
Day 2：布魯尼島，留宿一晚
先在 Gastown East 吃 brunch，瑪芬配螃蟹炒蛋，美好的一天從胃開始。
搭渡輪上島後一路南下，沿途會經過：
- Get Shucked：生蠔現開現吃，新鮮到不需要任何調味
- Bruny Cheese & Beer Co：現場試飲精釀啤酒，配當地產的軟質乳酪
- Bruny Honey：島上養蜂人自產自銷，還帶走一瓶蜂蜜蜜酒
- The Neck Lookout：連接南北島的沙洲觀景臺，風大但視野絕佳，拍了無數張照片
路上還遇到一間路邊無人看守的冰箱麵包店🍞——付錢全靠自覺，好可愛。
入住 Dharamshala 民宿後去看 Bruny 燈塔，傍晚回 The Neck 等企鵝歸巢……等了很久，一隻都沒有。晚餐在 Bruny Hotel 吃了海鮮烤拼和魷魚沙拉，回民宿配上白天買的蜂蜜啤酒，完美收尾第二天。
Before following this route
This article covers two days of the trip, with accommodation in both South Arm and on Bruny Island. It is not a two-day, one-night itinerary to copy exactly: allow additional time to leave the island and complete your return journey.
We collected the car, visited Richmond, returned to Hobart for the market, then took the ferry to Bruny Island the following day. Check that the market fits your travel date and choose accommodation around each day’s endpoint. Neither the aurora nor wildlife sightings are guaranteed; the food stops and small shops gave us plenty to enjoy when both failed to appear.
Day 1: Hobart + Richmond
We landed in Hobart, picked up a SIXT rental, and drove straight to Richmond — a stone bridge built in 1823 and endless grassland, worth the trip just to sit and stare for a while.
Lunch was at Czeggs: honey cake and seafood pasta. Nearby we found the local “Wombat Man,” and picked up a hand-carved wooden wombat as a souvenir.
In the afternoon we wandered Salamanca Market, Hobart’s liveliest Saturday market — everything from handicrafts and local produce to street food. We had a scalding-hot bowl of lobster soup and browsed the honey and lavender stalls.
That night we stayed at Tiny Away, a forest cabin in South Arm, napped straight through to sunset, then had dinner at the RSL (Returned Services League, a community restaurant run by Australia’s veterans’ association) — surprisingly good pork belly at prices that felt like a steal for out-of-towners. We sat outside counting fireflies, waiting for the aurora… which never showed.
Day 2: Bruny Island, staying overnight
Brunch at Gastown East — a muffin and crab scrambled eggs, a good day starting from the stomach.
We took the ferry across and headed south, passing:
- Get Shucked: oysters shucked and eaten on the spot, fresh enough to need no seasoning at all
- Bruny Cheese & Beer Co: craft beer tastings paired with local soft cheese
- Bruny Honey: made by the island’s own beekeepers — we brought home a bottle of mead too
- The Neck Lookout: a sand-spit viewpoint connecting the island’s north and south, windy but worth every one of the photos we took
Along the way we also stumbled on an unmanned roadside bread fridge 🍞 — pay on the honor system, impossibly charming.
We stayed at a Dharamshala guesthouse, visited the Bruny Lighthouse, then went back to The Neck at dusk to wait for penguins coming home… we waited a long time and saw none. Dinner at the Bruny Hotel was a seafood platter and calamari salad, capped off back at the guesthouse with the honey beer we’d picked up earlier — a perfect end to day two.
🗺️ 地圖上的足跡Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Tiny Away, South ArmTiny Away, South Arm
DharamshalaDharamshala
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
Richmond BridgeRichmond Bridge
1823年建成的石橋，周圍是無邊無際的草原A sandstone bridge completed in the 1820s, surrounded by wide-open pasture
💡 由囚犯勞工建造，1825年完工，是澳大利亞現存仍在使用中的最古老石拱橋。當地流傳著一個鬼故事：曾經虐待囚犯的監工喬治·格羅弗於1832年在橋邊被囚犯殺害，傳說他的鬼魂至今仍徘徊在橋上。Built by convict labor and completed in 1825, it's Australia's oldest surviving large stone-arch bridge still in use. Local legend has it that a brutal overseer, George Grover, was murdered by a convict near the bridge in 1832 — and his ghost is said to haunt it to this day.
Salamanca MarketSalamanca Market
霍巴特最熱鬧的週六市集Hobart's liveliest Saturday market
💡 自1972年起每週六舉行，超過300個攤位沿著19世紀30年代建造的砂岩倉庫一字排開，這些倉庫當年是為捕鯨和航運貿易而建。Running every Saturday since 1972, it's lined with over 300 stalls set against sandstone warehouses built in the 1830s, originally constructed for the whaling and shipping trade.
The Neck LookoutTruganini Lookout
連接布魯尼島南北的沙洲觀景臺The boardwalk lookout over the narrow isthmus connecting North and South Bruny Island
💡 正式名稱「特魯加尼尼觀景臺」，紀念塔斯馬尼亞原住民帕拉瓦族女性特魯加尼尼——殖民時期倖存下來的最後一批全血統塔斯馬尼亞原住民之一。木棧道下方是小企鵝與短尾鸌（「羊肉鳥」）的重要繁殖地。Officially named Truganini Lookout, after Truganini, a Palawa woman and one of the last full-blooded Tasmanian Aboriginal people to survive colonization. The boardwalk protects an important nesting colony of little penguins and short-tailed shearwaters ("mutton birds") below.
Bruny LighthouseCape Bruny Lighthouse
💡 建於1836至1838年間，是澳大利亞曾長期有人駐守運作的最古老燈塔之一，直到1996年才實現自動化。燈塔面朝南大洋，是塔斯馬尼亞風浪最猛烈的一段海岸。Built between 1836 and 1838, it's one of Australia's oldest continuously staffed lighthouses, only automated in 1996. It faces the Southern Ocean along one of the most storm-battered stretches of the Tasmanian coast.
🍴 美食Where we ate
Bruny Cheese & Beer CoBruny Island Cheese Company
推薦：Try:精釀啤酒配軟質乳酪Craft beer with soft cheese
推薦：Try:海鮮烤拼、魷魚沙拉Mixed seafood grill, calamari salad
✅ 會想再做一次的事What we'd do again
- 在 Richmond 找到 Wombat Man，帶走一隻手工木雕袋熊Finding the Wombat Man in Richmond and bringing home a carved wooden wombat
- 路邊無人看守的冰箱麵包店，付錢全靠自覺，好可愛An unmanned roadside bread fridge — pay on the honor system, impossibly charming
- Get Shucked生蠔，新鮮到不需要任何調味Oysters at Get Shucked, shucked and eaten on the spot, fresh enough to need no seasoning at all
😲 讓我們意外的事What surprised us
- 沒有等到極光，在 The Neck 等企鵝也撲空；這次的回憶反而是沿途的小店與美食No aurora and no penguins at The Neck; the food and small roadside stops became the memories instead
📋 實用資訊Practical information
- Salamanca Market建議早上九點前到，人潮還不算多，攤位也剛擺好最新鮮的貨Get to Salamanca Market before 9am if you can — the crowds are still thin and the stalls have just set out their freshest goods
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