2026年6月18日June 18, 2026
塔斯马尼亚攻略：霍巴特Salamanca Market + 布鲁尼岛两天一夜Tasmania Guide: Hobart's Salamanca Market + a Bruny Island Overnight
这趟塔斯马尼亚之旅，本来是冲着极光去的，结果天公不作美，倒是在布鲁尼岛意外撞见了一只淡定觅食的Wombat爷爷，还有生蚝、蜂蜜酒和一间无人看守的路边面包店，意外收获比极光还多。
Day 1：霍巴特市区 + Richmond
落地霍巴特，租了 SIXT 的车直奔 Richmond——一座建于1823年的石桥，加上无边无际的草原，光是发呆就值回票价。
午餐在 Czeggs 吃了蜂蜜蛋糕和海鲜意面，附近还找到当地的「Wombat Man」爷爷，买了一只手工木雕Wombat带回家当纪念。
下午回到市区逛 Salamanca Market——霍巴特最热闹的周六市集，手工艺品、当地农产品到街头小吃应有尽有，喝了一碗烫嘴的龙虾汤，顺手逛了蜂蜜和薰衣草摊位。建议早上九点前到，人潮还不算多，摊位也刚摆好最新鲜的货。
晚上入住 South Arm 的 Tiny Away 森林小屋，午觉睡到日落，接着去 RSL（Returned Services League，澳洲退伍军人协会开的社区餐厅）吃了出乎意料好吃的猪腩肉——价格亲民，外地人去会有点惊喜感。夜里坐在户外数萤火虫等极光……可惜没有等到。
Day 2：布鲁尼岛一日游
先在 Gastown East 吃 brunch，玛芬配螃蟹炒蛋，美好的一天从胃开始。
搭渡轮上岛后一路南下，沿途会经过：
- Get Shucked：生蚝现开现吃，新鲜到不需要任何调味
- Bruny Cheese & Beer Co：现场试饮精酿啤酒，配当地产的软质奶酪
- Bruny Honey：岛上养蜂人自产自销，还带走一瓶蜂蜜蜜酒
- The Neck Lookout：连接南北岛的沙洲观景台，风大但视野绝佳，拍了无数张照片
路上还遇到一间路边无人看守的冰箱面包店🍞——付钱全靠自觉，好可爱。
入住 Dharamshala 民宿后去看 Bruny 灯塔，傍晚回 The Neck 等企鹅归巢……等了很久，一只都没有。晚餐在 Bruny Hotel 吃了海鲜烤拼和鱿鱼沙拉，回民宿配上白天买的蜂蜜啤酒，完美收尾第二天。
完整路线、交通安排和费用明细都录在这集视频里，看完记得订阅，下一站还有更多欧洲和大洋洲的行程等着你们！
This Tasmania trip was originally all about chasing the aurora. The weather didn’t cooperate, but we made up for it with a wombat calmly foraging on Bruny Island — plus oysters, mead, and an honesty-system roadside bakery we didn’t see coming.
Day 1: Hobart + Richmond
We landed in Hobart, picked up a SIXT rental, and drove straight to Richmond — a stone bridge built in 1823 and endless grassland, worth the trip just to sit and stare for a while.
Lunch was at Czeggs: honey cake and seafood pasta. Nearby we found the local “Wombat Man,” and picked up a hand-carved wooden wombat as a souvenir.
In the afternoon we wandered Salamanca Market, Hobart’s liveliest Saturday market — everything from handicrafts and local produce to street food. We had a scalding-hot bowl of lobster soup and browsed the honey and lavender stalls. Arrive before 9am if you can — the crowds are still thin and the stalls have just set out their freshest goods.
That night we stayed at Tiny Away, a forest cabin in South Arm, napped straight through to sunset, then had dinner at the RSL (Returned Services League, a community restaurant run by Australia’s veterans’ association) — surprisingly good pork belly at prices that felt like a steal for out-of-towners. We sat outside counting fireflies, waiting for the aurora… which never showed.
Day 2: Bruny Island day trip
Brunch at Gastown East — a muffin and crab scrambled eggs, a good day starting from the stomach.
We took the ferry across and headed south, passing:
- Get Shucked: oysters shucked and eaten on the spot, fresh enough to need no seasoning at all
- Bruny Cheese & Beer Co: craft beer tastings paired with local soft cheese
- Bruny Honey: made by the island’s own beekeepers — we brought home a bottle of mead too
- The Neck Lookout: a sand-spit viewpoint connecting the island’s north and south, windy but worth every one of the photos we took
Along the way we also stumbled on an unmanned roadside bread fridge 🍞 — pay on the honor system, impossibly charming.
We stayed at a Dharamshala guesthouse, visited the Bruny Lighthouse, then went back to The Neck at dusk to wait for penguins coming home… we waited a long time and saw none. Dinner at the Bruny Hotel was a seafood platter and calamari salad, capped off back at the guesthouse with the honey beer we’d picked up earlier — a perfect end to day two.
The full route, transport arrangements, and cost breakdown are all in the video. Subscribe after watching — more Europe and Oceania trips are on the way!
🗺️ 地图上的足迹Where it all happened
Map data: © OpenStreetMap contributors
🏨 住宿Where we stayed
Tiny Away, South ArmTiny Away, South Arm
DharamshalaDharamshala
📍 去過的景點Landmarks visited
Richmond BridgeRichmond Bridge
1823年建成的石桥，周围是无边无际的草原A sandstone bridge completed in the 1820s, surrounded by wide-open pasture
💡 由囚犯劳工建造，1825年完工，是澳大利亚现存仍在使用中的最古老石拱桥。当地流传着一个鬼故事：曾经虐待囚犯的监工乔治·格罗弗于1832年在桥边被囚犯杀害，传说他的鬼魂至今仍徘徊在桥上。Built by convict labor and completed in 1825, it's Australia's oldest surviving large stone-arch bridge still in use. Local legend has it that a brutal overseer, George Grover, was murdered by a convict near the bridge in 1832 — and his ghost is said to haunt it to this day.
Salamanca MarketSalamanca Market
霍巴特最热闹的周六市集Hobart's liveliest Saturday market
💡 自1972年起每周六举行，超过300个摊位沿着19世纪30年代建造的砂岩仓库一字排开，这些仓库当年是为捕鲸和航运贸易而建。Running every Saturday since 1972, it's lined with over 300 stalls set against sandstone warehouses built in the 1830s, originally constructed for the whaling and shipping trade.
The Neck LookoutTruganini Lookout
连接布鲁尼岛南北的沙洲观景台The boardwalk lookout over the narrow isthmus connecting North and South Bruny Island
💡 正式名称「特鲁加尼尼观景台」，纪念塔斯马尼亚原住民帕拉瓦族女性特鲁加尼尼——殖民时期幸存下来的最后一批全血统塔斯马尼亚原住民之一。木栈道下方是小企鹅与短尾鹱（「羊肉鸟」）的重要繁殖地。Officially named Truganini Lookout, after Truganini, a Palawa woman and one of the last full-blooded Tasmanian Aboriginal people to survive colonization. The boardwalk protects an important nesting colony of little penguins and short-tailed shearwaters ("mutton birds") below.
Bruny LighthouseCape Bruny Lighthouse
💡 建于1836至1838年间，是澳大利亚曾长期有人驻守运作的最古老灯塔之一，直到1996年才实现自动化。灯塔面朝南大洋，是塔斯马尼亚风浪最猛烈的一段海岸。Built between 1836 and 1838, it's one of Australia's oldest continuously staffed lighthouses, only automated in 1996. It faces the Southern Ocean along one of the most storm-battered stretches of the Tasmanian coast.
🍴 美食Where we ate
Bruny Cheese & Beer CoBruny Island Cheese Company
推薦：Try:精酿啤酒配软质奶酪Craft beer with soft cheese
推薦：Try:海鲜烤拼、鱿鱼沙拉Mixed seafood grill, calamari salad